Dining

Romantic New York Restaurants

by Julie Besonen, 01/29/2014

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  • Fung Tu
    22 Orchard St., 212-219-8785

    Fung Tu is on the edge of Chinatown, but don't expect takeout or delivery. It's not that sort of experience. Chef Jonathan Wu (Per Se) and dream-team partners Wilson Tang (Nom Wah Tea Parlor), John Matthew Wells (Mas) and sommelier Jason Wagner (L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon) have built a spare, stylish restaurant serving creative Chinese cuisine. For starters, smoked and fried duck-filled dates have a sweet-salty balance; supple egg rolls may be stuffed with pork belly and cilantro—ingredients change periodically—to be dipped in citrus mayo. Whole steamed fish for two with fennel, tangerine peel, chili and fermented black beans is highly recommended, as are reservations. Wagner must have found it a fun challenge to assemble an astute list of wine, beer, sherry and cocktails to match the complex flavors.

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