Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 12/05/2012
Photo: Jesse Winter/©MoMA P.S.1
M. Wells Dinette
22-25 Jackson Ave., 718-786-1800, Long Island City, Queens
Hugue Dufour, the Quebecois chef who corralled the City's food mavericks at M. Wells Diner, has returned. Some of his original dishes are back on the new restaurant's rotating menu, such as smoked herring Caesar salad, bi bim Wells (a crazy, Korean-inspired concoction of shellfish and foie gras) and Paris-Brest, a circular, family-size dessert of choux pastry swollen with hazelnut cream. Instead of a cramped diner, this time out his bold ambition has more room to roam in a former schoolroom cafeteria at MoMA PS1 in Long Island City. The menu is written on a chalkboard, with dishes added or erased seemingly every hour. If you see tongue, get it. (Yes, get the tongue.) Incredibly soft, studded with carrots and pickles and blanketed with aioli, it's the breakout dish. Match it with a glass of red from Morocco. Right now, the restaurant is keeping to the museum's hours, but proprietors hope to figure out a way to stay open past 6pm.