Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 12/05/2012
Photo: Alexander Thompson
285 W. 12th St., 646-896-1804, West Village, Manhattan
Graydon Carter, of Vanity Fair, The Waverly Inn and Monkey Bar fame, has done it again. Beatrice Inn is a beauty, appointed with dark mahogany, flickering candlelight and leather banquettes, and peopled by a well-groomed crowd. This 1840 building most recently housed a short-lived, fabulous nightclub that the neighbors drove out because of the noise. Locals should appreciate this iteration, with jazz playing at a reasonable level. Chef Brian Nasworth, who put in five years at Per Se, has put together a modern American menu that includes a particularly fine lamb chop and a sensational pan-roasted halibut with heirloom cauliflower and romesco sauce. What may stick in the mind even more, though, is a complex soup of Yukon Gold potatoes, chestnut confit, black truffle and chive oil. A salted toffee apple crème brûlée makes a divine finish.