Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 06/19/2013
Photo: Joe Buglewicz
504 E. 12th St., 646-918-7985, East Village, Manhattan
This great little find in the East Village features Sho Boo, a rare female sushi chef, who struck out on her own after stints at the venerable Sushi Yasuda and Jewel Bako. In her native Osaka, she had a restaurant called Mushi Tachi, which translates as "Bugs." To shed light on the name, a sign inside her new space reads: "Just like bugs get together, I wanted to have a place for people." OK! From a galley kitchen smaller than those found in the average Manhattan apartment, she creates sushi tasting menus and à la carte items like edamame with plum salt, sizzling shishito peppers, a savory, brothy melding of kale and maitake mushrooms, and cubes of fried sea bass in a thick, congee-like stew of vegetables and mushrooms. The celery-green space is minimalist, with fewer than 20 seats and just one server who also does the dishes. Boo's homecooking is delicious and modestly priced for the quality, plus there's a decent selection of sake and Japanese beer.