Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 09/10/2013
Photo: Evan Sung
160 N. 12th St., 718-218-1088, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Paul Liebrandt is shooting for the stars in Williamsburg now that he's left the Michelin-starred Corton in TriBeCa. The Elm is still fine dining but without white tablecloths, located inside the chic King & Grove hotel. To access the restaurant, descend a flight of stairs whose entrance is on the building's exterior. You'll discover a lofty dining room where the walls climb with leafy plants and a frosted window that affords views of the hotel's pool (and swimmers in various states of undress). Each of Liebrandt's dishes is an elaborate, artistic production. Doesn't swiss chard agnolotti with lobster, corn and shishito peppers sound good? It tastes even better: the pasta envelopes nest under big chunks of lobster meat, smoked milk foam and gratings of butterscotch-like, five-year-old gouda. Upper Elm, a rooftop bar with stunning views of Manhattan, is perfect for a nightcap. Little Elm, an eight-seat chef's counter serving a tasting menu, should make its debut by the end of the month.