Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 09/10/2013
Photo: Noah Fecks
157 Duane St., 212-587-1089, TriBeCa, Manhattan
Assembling the perfect bite is the goal at Khe-Yo, the City's first and only Laotian restaurant. Using your hands, fold a morsel of browned coconut rice with spicy sausage into a baby iceberg lettuce leaf; add a dash of hot sauce and taste the interplay of fragrant flavors and textures. (Lemon-scented hand towels arrive beforehand in case you haven't had a chance to wash up after exiting the subway.) Creekstone Farms sesame beef jerky with smoked chili sauce, and crispy pork belly and shrimp rolls are also delicious finger food. It's better to use a knife and fork with the succulent Bell & Evans grilled half-chicken trussed with bamboo skewers. Executive chef Soulayphet Schwader was born in Laos and worked for years with Marc Forgione, who is a partner at this dark, brick-walled, stylish restaurant, replacing the long-running Duane Park Café. Look for a Khe-Yosk to open soon out front, selling banh mi sandwiches to go.