Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 11/06/2013
Bourbon pecan pie at Morgan's Brooklyn Barbecue. Photo: Alexander Thompson
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454 Van Brunt St., 347-294-4644, Red Hook, Brooklyn
Morgan's Brooklyn Barbecue
267 Flatbush Ave., 718-622-2224, Prospect Heights, Brooklyn
Superstorm Sandy delayed the opening of Hometown for a year: owner William Durney had to battle 6 feet of water and replace everything from the electricity to the plumbing. Luckily, his smoker survived and is now going at full tilt, producing deliciously moist, sweetly smoked brisket, beef ribs, baby back ribs and jerk chicken. Among the sides are densely flavored smoked pit beans with house-cured bacon and a herbaceous potato salad that's nearly the consistency of mashed potatoes. Order at the counter: it's such a hit the line can be long, especially on weekends. For lunch (Saturdays and Sundays only), Hometown offers fat $11 sandwiches on Caputo rolls. The barnwood-decorated front room is saloonlike and features live bluegrass and country acts on weekends. All around, it's great for families, with plenty of space to sprawl out.
Opened around the same time as Hometown, Morgan's feels more rock-and-roll than country, tending to play Breaking Benjamin and Garbage over Dwight Yoakam and Johnny Cash. The greenish walls are deliberately ravaged and pockmarked, giving the space a Boardwalk Empire feel. Like at Hometown, there's a good selection of beer and whiskey, attractive wood detail and friendly people. The brisket, pulled pork, and pork and beef ribs are similarly pink, moist, smoky and meaty, but where it differs is in Texas-style favorites like turkey tails (served on sweet collards with corn bread), soft tacos, frito pie and baked potatoes loaded with meats and sour cream. Plus, it's waiter service as opposed to carrying your own 'cue-laden tray.