Recently Opened Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 12/03/2013
Photo: Alexander Thompson
90 Third Ave., 212-390-8685, East Village, Manhattan
The way they're cramming into Han Dynasty, you'd think downtowners had never seen Szechuan food before. Actually, there hasn't been anything quite this good until now. Owner Han Chiang began his empire in Philadelphia; this is his first New York City outpost. The walls are the color of hot mustard, the air redolent of garlic and red chilies and the lighting less bright than at places in Chinatown. Almost everything is on the spicy side, from cold sesame noodles scattered with fresh sesame seeds to double-fried chicken wings served with a golden crust. Salt-and-pepper shrimp are lightly battered, pale as boiled dumplings, and served over an onion-and-pepper slaw. There's much more on the beer list than Tsingtao (Six Point Sweet Action, Left Hand Milk Stout), and decent wine choices start around $8 a glass. At night, even on Mondays, you will wait for a table; lunch is full too, though not as crazy.