Smith Street Dining
by Julie Besonen, 10/22/2013
Great Gatsby sandwich. Photo: Will Steacy
Shelsky's Smoked Fish
251 Smith St., 718-855-8817, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn
Shelsky's Smoked Fish is just what the Jewish doctor ordered on Smith Street, purveying artisanal pickled herring that's not too sweet and smoked salmon sliced surgically thin. Owner Peter Shelsky recently introduced the exclusive Tilgner's Ruby Red Olde World Scottish Style cold-smoked salmon and urges it be eaten with a buttered bagel, saying cream cheese is too much of a distraction from its intense alder-wood smokiness. If you want a more basic bagel nosh, there's good old lox with a schmear, plus sandwiches like the Dr. Goldstein Special: duck-fat-laced chopped liver and apple-horseradish sauce served between two schmaltz-fried potato latkes. The offerings are similar to the fabled Russ & Daughters on the Lower East Side, stocking dried fruit plus rugelach, babka and chocolate-covered halvah bars.