Smith Street Dining
by Julie Besonen, 10/22/2013
Greek salad, gigandes and golden fried pita bread with tirokafteri spread. Photo: Will Steacy
Avlee Greek Kitchen
349 Smith St., 718-855-5125, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn
High-caliber Hellenic comfort food at very fair prices makes Avlee one of the most appealing restaurants on Smith Street. Ingredients come from local farmers whenever possible, and you won't find a better gyro or fresher Greek salad in Brooklyn—or any other borough, for that matter. Golden fried pita bread with tirokafteri spread is a must: a spicy feta and red pepper blend that calls to mind pimiento cheese dip. Sides like gigandes, giant white beans in tomato stew, and horta, a leafy green similar to escarole, liven up grilled whole Mediterranean sea bream. Most of the generously portioned appetizers are under $10 and main courses are generally under $20; glasses of Greek wine poured in Ball jars start at $6. The restaurant is casual, with a modern-rustic design, especially quiet and pleasant at lunch.