Smith Street Dining
by Julie Besonen, 10/22/2013
Photo: Will Steacy
255 Smith St., 718-852-8321, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn
Battersby is what the new Brooklyn is about—individuality, creativity and coolness. Co-chefs and co-owners Walker Stern and Joseph Ogrodnek are restive talents, constantly changing the menu while shrewdly not changing the browned, fresh-from-the-oven rosemary bread with runny ricotta. An eager and knowing clientele slips into the 10 bar seats early since table reservations are limited. Right now you might get an amuse-bouche shot glass of butternut squash soup with a froth of crème fraîche, so remarkable you'll be temporarily speechless. From watching the barman slap fresh herbs into drinks and the chefs' intense focus in the galley kitchen to the swiftly arriving plates of crispy kale salad and seared scallops, there are no moments of boredom. You may even forget to check your phone.