Smith Street Dining
by Julie Besonen, 10/22/2013
Photo: Mark Anderson
Dassara Brooklyn Ramen
271 Smith St., 718-643-0781, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn
Dassara is an atypical ramen house, letting loose with cross-cultural concoctions like bacon and egg noodles with pecorino cheese at brunch. Co-owner Josh Kaplan appropriates his Aunt Sherry's matzo ball recipe to cross-pollinate with spicy, tingly cumin lamb ramen. Standout starters include garlic marinated twice-fried chicken wings and steamed buns with oft-changing fillings. The barroom is a hangout for strong drinks, conversation and sports on the flat screen, while the dining room tends to cater to families and dates. Other than some graphic Lucy Liu posters and sake bottles hanging overhead like a bunch of bowling pins, the design is a study in Asian minimalism.