by Julie Besonen, 07/18/2012
Country fried steak. Photo: Malcolm Brown
The Brooklyn Star
593 Lorimer St., 718-599-9899, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
The notion of eating pig tails may not have occurred to you, but give it some thought. Who knew they could be so delicious? At The Brooklyn Star, the tails, slathered in rich tomato sauce, are a cross between wings and ribs, more meaty than you'd expect and served in a bowl with crusty tater tots. No complaints when it comes to country fried steak or the hot meat loaf sandwich, either. The Southern food here has a Texas twang since that's where chef/co-owner Joaquin Baca (ex-Momofuku) hails from. His drinks list is supremely eclectic, ranging from Miller High Life to a Dr. Pepper cocktail to elegant European wines. The sleek bar and dining room is spacious, a good place for groups to share the big-as-Dallas portions. This is a cool, not hokey, venue where you're more likely to hear The Kinks and the Ramones than Toby Keith.