Wok This Way: 9 of NYC's Best Chinese Restaurants
by Julie Besonen, 12/22/2010
Pork dumplings and roasted duck. Photo: Phil Kline
Great N.Y. Noodletown
28 Bowery, 212-349-0923, Chinatown, Manhattan
So brightly lit it almost hurts your eyes, Great N.Y. Noodletown is nevertheless a cult favorite among off-duty chefs, celebrities and late-night club kids. Ruth Reichl and David Chang are among its notable fans—Chang, especially, for the ginger-scallion sauce he was inspired to re-create at Momofuku Noodle Bar. Plenty of working people come here day and night, too (it's open until 4am), simply because the poached chicken breast with the aforementioned ginger-scallion sauce, Cantonese-style wide noodles and baby pig on rice are so intoxicating. Other than merciless lighting, the decor consists of ducks hanging on hooks in the window and menus slipped under the glass tabletops. But you don't eat the decorations, and the food lives up to the hype.