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Ellabess is not your average hotel restaurant, the seasoned team behind it having already established three hip Italian joints in the West Village (Dell'anima, L'Artusi and Anfora). The venue in the Nolitan Hotel has a market-driven American bent, with grilled shrimp and grits, wild king salmon confit and dry-aged New York strip steak, a requisite nod to the weary business traveler in need of something familiar. Potato-bacon croquettes are a hearty side dish. The dining room and bar are stylish and spare, in keeping with the fashionable environs.