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The restaurant isn"t much bigger than a subway car--which is appropriate, given that it"s named after the A train. The tiny place quickly fills up with alluring aromas--and patrons. The refined, all-organic menu makes stops in Europe, Africa and Latin America, with dishes like mango-marinated duck confit; sautéed summer squash with white beans in a creamy coconut sauce; and quail pâté topped with Brie and drizzled with truffle rum. The MTA should take note of the startlingly reasonable prices: This place actually deserves a fare hike.

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