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This fair reproduction of a British chippie is primarily a takeout shop--counter seating is limited to nine stools. Overfished traditional cod has been thrown out of the net in favor of similar-tasting, sustainable local pollock (or you can choose slightly pricier haddock or sole), while the potatoes for thick-cut chips are grown on Long Island. Fish is expertly fried up fresh to order: flaky and tender inside, not too greasy outside. Salmon-and-whitefish cakes and "mushy peas" both have unprocessed, homey appeal, but the chip butty (a Northern English specialty of chips in a roll) is probably best avoided by all but homesick Mancunians. Not so the deep-fried Mars bar--the belt-busting Scottish delicacy is a crisp-coated, melting treat. Drinks include popular English ales and imported sodas.

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