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Yes, it has a killer wine list, but the restaurant"s initials don"t stand for appellation d"origine contrôlée.{/I} The moniker derives instead from the title of a popular French gastro-film, L"aile ou la cuisse ("the wing or the thigh"). You"ll find an extensive menu, from breakfast and lunch (pastries, croque-monsieur) to dinner standards (duck confit, moules frites{/I}). Salmon tartare is a comfort food of sorts, served with homemade potato chips and cocktail sauce, while hanger steak is lightened by a sauce of wine, shallots and port.

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