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Taking up half of an avenue block, Accademia di Vino is an imposing presence on the Upper East Side. An encyclopedic menu from chef Kevin Garcia ('Cesca) covers all of the au courant Italian bases: small plates like honey-kissed kabocha squash; grilled pizzas, including a superior Robiola-and-black-truffle version; and larger dishes--a juicy, fork-tender veal chop should not be missed. Service is surprisingly sharp: The staff deftly negotiates the vaulted, subterranean dining room, tending to a hungry crowd that"s (rightfully) clamoring for seats.

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