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At this captivating Staten Island spot, you'll want to listen to your waitress. She knows that the arugula salad is fresh and tangy and the gigantic bowl of mussels, delicate and slightly sweet. She might steer you toward the famous meat loaf or urge you to try the asparagus-mushroom risotto or the duck-filled egg rolls with cilantro-lime aioli. No matter what you get, you'll go home happy.

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