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Surrounded by glittering stone walls and exposed beams and watched by an eight-foot-tall Buddha, well-dressed eaters chat away at this sceney Pan-Asian spot. Servers are in a rush to get you out the door and the prices are steep, but the plates are bountiful and the sushi here is so creamy and fresh it melts in your mouth. The Pekin duck, large enough to feed a table of four, is a mound of crisp skin and moist meat with a side of warm moo shu pancakes and a salty-tangy sauce for DIY-style eating. Avoid the grocery-freezer quality desserts and cap the meal with a fancy cocktail.

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