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Red-walled Ajisai doesn"t have the standard sushi-bar look, but it delivers the goods. In addition to the usual maki assortment, there are several traditional dishes, such as crunchy sautéed lotus root and ikura uni donburi,{/I} a bowl of rice topped with plump, salty beads of salmon roe and earthy, creamy sea urchin. You"ll even find natto,{/I} the funky, fermented soybean paste that"s a love-it-or-hate-it taste. Fresh fruit and green tea are offered as complimentary palate cleansers.

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