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The cheesy Vegas-style signage that announces Alias"s presence on Clinton Street belies the elegant, seasonally inspired eats found within. Roasted hen-of-the-woods mushrooms are served with a runny egg, okra and creamy Anson Mills grits, while delicate striped bass--roasted with swiss chard and scallions--is topped with local radishes and drizzled with shrimp jus. The magic extends to the vibe: The modern-diner, glass-walled space attracts die-hard regulars, and the waitstaff is kind and gracious, even at the apex of Saturday-night fever.

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