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At chef-owner Albano Ballerini"s slow-food gem, shareable nibbles dominate the menu. A meat and formaggio plate includes an earthy truffled sottocenere cheese and hard disks of spicy salami, while a selection of roasts, such as well-seasoned leg of lamb, rotates nightly. Wines get equal play: Unusual vinos from the Marche region in central Italy abound, and the excellent house vintage is only $18 for a half liter.

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