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Nothing about this Radisson hotel restaurant would initially lead diners to believe it is anything but generic. The green and beige space has been outfitted with potted orchids and mirrored light fixtures, and the menu reads as if it was designed to satisfy the basic cravings of business travelers. Surprise, surprise: The food is excellent. A plump head-on shrimp starter came with luscious corn pudding and a tasty sweet-corn-and-tomato chutney. Tender, pink duck breast rested on a canvas of lentils with plum jam smeared on fluffy squash pancakes--like fancy chicken and waffles. Now if they"d only get rid of that Kenny G soundtrack.

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