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The menu at this funky Vietnamese restaurant isn"t the most adventurous in town, but the straightforward food still manages to impress. Simple, composed dishes such as tangy soy-marinated pork chops and delicate curried quail are better bets than the selection of pho (noodle soups). The classic version--rice noodles in beef broth with sliced flank steak--was light and clean but none too complex. The narrow interior is inviting--modern, with a large mural depicting bustling street life in Vietnam--but we"d sooner take our meal in the all-weather backyard, outfitted with cushy cabanas, bamboo furniture and leafy bamboo stalks.