Brooklyn – Williamsburg
172 Bedford Ave between North 7th and 8th Sts
The menu at this funky Vietnamese restaurant isn"t the most adventurous in town, but the straightforward food still manages to impress. Simple, composed dishes such as tangy soy-marinated pork chops and delicate curried quail are better bets than the selection of pho (noodle soups). The classic version--rice noodles in beef broth with sliced flank steak--was light and clean but none too complex. The narrow interior is inviting--modern, with a large mural depicting bustling street life in Vietnam--but we"d sooner take our meal in the all-weather backyard, outfitted with cushy cabanas, bamboo furniture and leafy bamboo stalks.
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- Average main course: $14. AmEx, MC, V