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The West Village has almost as many forgettable Italian restaurants as Little Italy. This eatery on the Hudson--replacing the oft-empty Uguale--seems to promise a significant detour from the middling norm. The space is inviting; it"s an old-fashioned candlelit dining room. But the prices are high and the food is mediocre at best. You"ll get a warm and heartfelt reception followed by a parade of preamble nibbles (bruschetta, fried zucchini, Parmesan hunks). Stop right there and you might walk away happy. The generic food that follows will dispel any illusion you"ve uncovered a gem. The carpaccio is a big soppy mess. Shrimp Fra Diavolo has kick but no flavor. Capellini with clams needs a handful of salt. Even the pyrotechnic dessert--tableside flambéed bananas and peaches--won"t help dull the pain in your wallet.

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