Manhattan – TriBeCa
281 Church St at White St
Manhattan, NY 10013
There's no scene to speak of at this Tribeca restaurant; you go for the food, which is the real thing. Specials such as pea soup and tagliarini with pesto are bright green with fresh ingredients; the pastas, including butternut squash tortelloni in brown butter, are as tender and chewy as fresh pasta should be. Whole grilled branzino is charred on the outside, moist and flavorful within. Baked duck breast with black currants and cassis balances sweet and salty. Moderate prices for above-average food compensate for lackluster service.
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