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Eat dessert first. That seems to be the message at Athens Cafe, a near-perfect neighborhood hangout where people-watching and coffee-drinking are accompanied by an upbeat Hellenic soundtrack. The menu starts with the sweet stuff, including offbeat treasures like galaktoboureko,{/I} a confection of firm custard, phyllo and honey. But the savories, though few, shouldn"t be neglected. The meze plate includes grilled Canadian bacon, marinated pork loin, olives and salty, chewy haloumi cheese with cucumber and tomatoes to balance the brininess. A Greek-style pizza, made with that same bacon-pork-haloumi combo, is the entrée of choice.

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