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Sensible and friendly are the first words that come to mind as you walk into the Upper East Side Atlantic Grill, one of the B.R. Guest family of restaurants. The comfortable banquettes that line the wall and the conservative, individually lit photos on the wall cater to this polished and subdued crowd. The focus here is seafood, and they explore it on many fronts, from maki rolls to steamed shrimp dumplings and various crusted fishes.