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"How about a nice moscato?" suggested the fuchsia-haired barmaid, when asked if there was anything for dessert. The short varnished-timber bar in this fine trattoria has developed into an inviting destination in its own right, offering everything from a Piemontese Nebbiolo delle Langhe to a Sicilian Nero D'Avola Santa Anastasia--Italian wines by the glass that go well beyond the usual. There's even a nice complement of amari on hand for those who wish to follow the Italian custom of shooting down a blast of bitters as a digestivo.

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