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Arched doorways and fabric draped like sails from wooden beams evoke a seaside village at this breezy Greek taverna. Start with appetizers such as grilled whole sardines or squid stuffed with feta. Composed plates--like the salmon Corfu, wrapped in grape leaves--are dependable, but in-the-know diners select fresh fish, priced by the pound, from the display. Order whatever looks good, be it flaky dorado or mild loup de mer,{/I} prepared the traditional way: charcoal-grilled and dressed with lemon juice, olive oil and oregano.

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