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Dark organza window treatments block out the First Avenue light; dramatically lit red rooms and leather banquettes strewn with tasseled silk cushions encourage Soho-style lounging. Cocktails and fusiony dim sum plates add to the clubby atmosphere, as does a first-hot-then-cold waitress, whose miniskirt was longer than her reserve of patience. The Chinese dishes, while generally satisfying, could have used a little renovation; prawn crackers had lost their crunch, and the shrimp dumplings were mistakenly replaced by lobster spring rolls. But to a nearby birthday girl and her friends, none of that really matters. They"re just here to have a good time and get a little Pan-Asian panache without having to leave the neighborhood.

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