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Saucer-shaped light fixtures and a chrome-furniture-filled back garden lend this Italian eatery a space-age look. But the restaurant tempers its Euro-chic vibe with grandma-style rusticity. The menu includes classics like pastas and veal milanese, but the highlight is pizza from the wood-burning oven. We liked a sauceless pie topped with smoked mozzarella, strips of pancetta and sweet onions. Torta di nonna,{/I} a sabayon tart with chocolate-cream piping and crushed pine nuts and pecans, was named for--you guessed it--Grandma.

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