Despite a decor that begins and ends with orange tablecloths, Bahar offers a lesson in comfort food, Afghani-style. Start with lesser-known dishes, like the sweet pumpkin turnovers called bolani kadu ($5.95) or the ashti gooshti ($9.95). The latter is Afghanistan's answer to lasagna: silky handmade noodles topped with ground beef, lentils, yogurt and tomato sauces, garnished with the cuisine's ubiquitous bright-green salsa of lemon and chopped cilantro. Then move on to the kebabs, skewers of grilled meats like tandoori chicken ($10.95) or chunks of lamb ($11.95), served with hot flatbread.
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