Israeli chef-owner Einat Admony (Taïm) combines her knowledge of Indian, European, South American and her native Middle Eastern ingredients at this tin-paneled Nolita restaurant. Appetizers are daring but not always successful (see the Japanese-Med starter of tiger shrimp cloaked in oily shredded phyllo pastry). But with entrées, Balaboosta excels. A marinated half chicken cooked under a brick was ideal comfort food, featuring crisp and juicy heritage fowl with gremolata and apricot-studded Israeli couscous. Like the mains, desserts--including a buttery date-banana bread pudding--were more in touch with Admony"s Middle Eastern roots. Despite her globe-trotting tendencies, a meal here is better when the cooking stays close to home.
Find more restaurants & bars at Time Out New York