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Making the most of his family heritage--his dad owns the impossible-to-get-into Harlem eatery Rao"s, Frank Pellegrino Jr. has captured the essence of an old-style Italian restaurant at Baldoria. Theatergoers can stop in for preshow martinis and oysters upstairs at the raw bar or share a postcurtain pasta and salad. Those who do dine can enjoy simple, well-prepared dishes such as creamy polenta with sausage or pollo limone,{/I} a moist, crisp-skinned chicken showered with lemon. Other inducements might make you want to forfeit your tickets: live swing music or deep, supremely comfortable red leather booths.

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