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The dishes here can be like a Russian doll: surprising for what"s revealed within. The restaurant distinguishes itself from its Curry Row brothers by mixing and matching traditional dishes with unexpected ingredients. A samosa may contain lamb, chicken or coconut. Banjara baingun is roasted eggplant with seafood stuffing.{I} Dumpakht looks at first like chicken potpie--but break the pastry and you"ll find moist, flavorful curry. Ask for a table by the kitchen window; maybe you can pick up a few cooking tips.

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