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Forget the massive dining palaces in other Chinatowns--here the draw is homey restaurants and markets, each with a regional Asian specialty, like this tiny Bengali takeout dessert shop. Bappy stocks elegant little sweets, such as gulab jamun (six for $5)--spongy doughnuts soaked in rose syrup--or super-rich, coconut-covered barfi ($5), made with condensed milk, chopped pistachios and plenty of sugar.

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