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Settle in under the expansive skylight and ceiling fans at this breezy French afternoon of a place and watch the staff make it all look easy. The frisée salad balances the bitter crunch of frisée with the sweet, saltiness of lardons, while the steak frites au poivre offers absolutely faultless frites. And a pitch-perfect croque-madame, made with Canadian ham, Gruyère and two fried eggs, promises pure embarrassment for other grilled-cheese concoctions. The easiness of the place is infectious, so just embrace your champagne and relax.

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