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When a restaurant puts a period in its name, you have to figure it"s going for the trendy crowd. Scores of young professionals have answered the call, packing the sleek space for happy hour and spilling into its tiny dining room, where they huddle to be heard. Having a cocktail and sampling the tasting plates is probably the best way to enjoy the atmosphere, though early birds and those who like the energy of a chatty crowd may want to hunker down to such dishes as a pappardelle. The arugula salad, with toasted pine nuts, slices of nutty Parmesan, and a dressing of olive oil and lemon, is a pleasant counterpoint. The service makes you feel cared for, even if it is slightly surreal to have a meticulous waiter placing salad onto your plate while the White Stripes serenade the tipsy singles at the bar.

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