At Bark Hot Dogs, chefs Brandon Gillis (Franny"s) and Joshua Sharkey (Café Gray) cast their gaze at the lowly wiener. The headlining menu item--a proprietary pork-and-beef blend--is a resounding success. Take one bite and the taut casing cleanly snaps, revealing a creamy filling with just a hint of smoke. Sides like fries and onion rings, and desserts such as milk shakes made from Il Laboratorio del Gelato, play their accompanying roles admirably. If you"re going to clog your arteries, this is one of the better ways to do it.