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Every table is usually full at this convivial crowd magnet, so hungry would-be diners must nurse glasses of vin rouge at the two zinc-topped bars. The menu is a lightened version of what you"d find at a typical bistro, with less cream and butter and more contemporary touches. A red-and-yellow-beet salad with baby arugula, goat cheese and a roasted-beet vinaigrette makes it easy to eat your vegetables. Grilled hanger steak with maitre d'hotel butter and fries is tender and juicy, if too small. Among the usual desserts is a playful ringer: a banana tarte Tatin.

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