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Knishes, hot pastrami, chopped liver--youll find deli classics and much more at Bens, proud sponsor of an annual matzo-ball-eating contest. (The 2002 winner downed 16 and a quarter in five minutes.) The granddaddy of seven statewide locations, Bens Gotham branch features a loud, 250-seat purple dining room and even louder yellow menus, chock-full of exclamation points. Half an overstuffed sandwich, served on soft, tangy rye or wheat, is thicker than War and Peace, and the beef, turkey and veggie burgers are bursting out of their buns. There are also steaks, veal chops and chicken livers, plus lighter choices, such as a Caesar salad. Bens is midtown-pricey and lacks the bustling charm of the 2nd Avenue Deli, but with so many choices, stop kvetching and eat already.

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