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Black-clad downtowners gather outside this intimate trattoria, poring over the menu while waiting for a table. Inside, their patience is rewarded by the gnocco fritto{/I}--puffy slabs of fried dough just begging to be torn apart and filled with smoky salami, mortadella and prosciutto. Pastas are homemade and perfectly cooked, although the tagliatelle bolognese could benefit from a more flavorful sauce. On a blustery evening, brodetto,{/I} a hearty fish soup from Italy"s Adriatic coast, is a comforting choice. The ricotta cheesecake is a nod to Nonna"s old recipe collection.

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