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At this small, golden-lit eatery, skip white-bean ravioli for a stellar entrée of crisp-skinned grilled guinea hen on crunchy roasted-corn-and-scallion fregula{/I}. Moist porcini-crusted cod with red-pepper vinaigrette also sang (though dull borlotto beans and oily greens stole some of its thunder). Desserts were a mixed bag, but panna cotta and sour cherries mingled well together.

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