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This Upper West Side eatery snubs the fauxthentic trappings that mark too many of the city"s French bistros. In place of the battered wicker furniture you"ll find tin ceilings and marble-topped tables that see a parade of well-executed brasserie staples. A marinated rack of lamb is served with a simple yet satisfying accompaniment of thinly sliced red potatoes, and fresh herbs are generously strewn over salads and steak frites alike. For dessert, you can"t go wrong with the classic crêpes suzette.

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