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Le Steak is tricked out as "authentically" as all those other bistros in town: tin ceiling, tiled floor, tiny tables placed an inch apart. And as usual, the standard provisions--mussels, escargots, onion soup gratiné--are best. The menu's six steak varieties are top-notch, notably the filet mignon au poivre. The perfectly seasoned pommes frites are worth every gram of guilt; ditto the side of creamed spinach and surtout, a rich chocolate mousse.

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