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Do not confuse this restaurant with the lobster-roll spot of the same name. The reference to pearls is misleading, too: While it sounds like a seafood joint, this is mainly an Italian eatery, with a wide variety of pastas and a whole page of pizzas--plus salads, sandwiches, and meat and fish dishes. The menu still seems to be a work-in-progress--there were some culinary missteps in recent weeks--but the offerings are more hit than miss. From the raw bar, the cocktail shrimp were meaty, with a dipping sauce that was just spicy enough to add kick without overpowering the crustaceans. The insalata caprese was clearly made with fresh ingredients--soft, lightly salted rounds of buffalo mozzarella and thick slices of tomato. Unfortunately, the chef seems to have a heavy hand with the olive oil: A perfectly delicious sea bass fillet was swimming in it (pun intended), as was the tuna-and-salmon tartare. The safest bet: Stick with the pizzas that come out of the large wood-burning oven at the back of the place; they"re thin, not too cheesy and perfectly charred.

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