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If you take the A train past Harlem, where Duke Ellington suggested you go, you'll get to Hudson Heights, where Bleu Evolution is a member of a growing scene. The heart of this pioneer beats at the front of the house in the Monkey Lounge, where muslin scrims stream down from the ceiling; the restaurant is draped in red velvet, adding to the brothel vibe. In summer, two patios (one smoking, one covered) welcome diners. The menu spans the globe, with leanings toward France. Take a quiet table in the tiny back room and try duck confit in a crêpe or bacon-wrapped monkfish. Appetizers, like a Mediterranean platter (hummus, baba ghanoush and falafel), are perfect for late-night snacking. (The kitchen serves a bar menu until 4am on weekends.)

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